Romblon: Take 2

Like I said before, I am truly captivated by the beauty of Romblon that I couldn't pass up the opportunity to come back and experience it once again.  Also, I am excited to see the places and beaches I failed to go to during my first visit here.

Romblon didn't disappoint me. There is so much more to see but so little time.

The sand bar in Bon bon beach:-)

bird bath

This is the view that made a former National geographic correspondent stay in Romblon with Filipina girlfriend.  From the top of his house, you can enjoy this breathtaking vista 

The Church of Romblon, A National Cultural Treasure

Old Municipal Building

For P 20.00 you can eat this much bananas:-)

these are dried squid and shrimp

"Bakas" River

      the marble hills in Bakas        
Photo by Ibarra Castro, Jr.

Part of Angat River and situated in Bgy. Matictic at Sitio Kanyakan, in Norzagaray, Bulacan, is the pristine body of water surrounded by marble hills known as “Bakas”.  The place got its name from a giant-like footprint in one of the marble hills along the river. Beside the giant footmark, there is also a dented print of a dog’s paw. Tourists and locals alike frequent “Bakas” all year round especially during summer to swim in its water, making it a favorite picnic place of families and groups.

Its unique name and the enigma surrounding Bakas makes the river more exciting and challenging for some people. There are three popular legends surrounding the footprint on this huge limestone formation.  Some old folks believed that the footprint was made by “Bernardo Carpio,” others said that it was left by “Samuel Bilibit,” still some old folks averred that it was from “San Cristobal (St. Christopher)”.  An old version, one that is believed to be the oldest tale behind "Bakas" indicated that it was made by “Bathala,” the God of the Tagalogs. The story behind Bathala’s footprint, which my grandmother once mentioned to me, was forgotten long before it could be documented.

The three oral stories about "Bakas" which I gathered from old folks in Norzagaray.

The Legend of Bakas (Bernardo Carpio Version)

In his attempt to catch the lightning, Bernardo Carpio travelled fast and far, leaving footprints in places where he set his foot on, “Bakas” being one of them.  Before coming to Norzagaray, he was in San Miguel (Bulacan).  According to legend, he nearly overtook the lightning and was about to catch it.  But, when he reached Montalban, the lightning went straight between two limestone rocks inside a cave.  Bernardo Carpio tried to pass between these twin rocks but he was imprisoned by it.

Earthquake, according to old town folks, is said to be caused by Bernardo Carpio’s attempt to get free from that cave.

The Legend of Bakas (Samuel Bilibit Version)

The footprint in “Bakas” was from Samuel Bilibit.  This man has been in all four corners of the earth.  As punishment from the grave sin that he committed, God told him to walk until he finds what he is looking for.

He leaves footprints wherever he goes because of the heavy chain he carries around his calf.

The Legend of Bakas (San Cristobal Version)

In another old story, the footprint was made by a giant man named Cristobal when he crossed the river carrying a small boy with a ball in his hand.  The large man was puzzled as to why the boy was so heavy. He had carried men and women across the river but none was as heavy as the boy.  Later, he learned that the boy was actually Jesus who was holding the world in his hand.   

Pinagrealan Cave and Its Legacy

Mouth of Pinagrealan Cave in Bigte, Norzagaray, Bulacan

[This note was written last year.  Some researches I made are still not included in this post.  However, this has undergone changes since the very first time I posted it (August 22, 2012), because some of my readers have given additional input to some stories here.  For that, I am thankful.--singkitt]

There seems to be a renewed interest in a cave within the land own by our family, the Pinagrealan. I do not know if it's a good or bad thing that local officials of Norzagaray are promoting it as a tourist spot. I'm hoping, though, that the advantages will far outweigh the disadvantages. The cave had been threatened with destruction due to attempts by enterprising individuals, corporations and politicians to quarry its system of limestones so many a times, that we are willing to negotiate with the local government about opening up a part of our land to the public in order to protect Pinagrealan. The land surrounding the cave has been with our family for more than a century now. My lola Oniang (my father's mom) inherited the land from her father, the late Ambrosio dela Cruz, one of the leaders of the Katipunan in Bulacan during the Spanish period. With the land, came the responsibility to ensure that the cave will be preserved.  Not that my great grandfather made it a requisite, my Lolo Jose, the husband of my lola,   took it upon himself to see that the events that took place in that site will not be forgotten.  The cave serves as  a reminder of the greatness of our local heroes.  He wanted the future generation to appreciate the sacrifices the Katipuneros made in order for us to be free from foreign domination.  

Pinagrealan bears witness to the many heroic deeds of ordinary people born under extraordinary circumstances, of folks with unfailing nationalism and patriotism during times of war and subjugation, and of perservering mortals' desiring abundance for the land surrounding it. My childhood was filled with stories about my father's maternal grandfather's experiences during the Spanish era and my dad's childhood during the Japanese occupation.  The cave play a large part in it. Somehow, it seemed to have save people's lives directly or indirectly.  Although lives have been lost, too.

According to my father, his grandfather, Ambrosio dela Cruz was known as "Cabezang Ambon" because he held the position of Cabeza (chief of a Barangay) during Spanish reign. Cabezang Ambon, however, was also a member of the secret society of Masons as well as the Katipunan. In the latter, he held the title of adviser in the local chapter and also one of the financiers of the Katipunan's movement. Pinagrealan Cave was a favorite venue for their secret meetings.  There was also an account that says Aguinaldo once stayed there for days before proceeding to San Miguel (they came from Montalban) to go to Biak na Bato to replenish forces and to let their tired and sick bodies recuperate from illnesses brought about by encounters with Spanish Soldiers, to which they were often at a losing end.  According to my father, my great grandfather did not really like Aguinaldo for he was, like the rest of the Katipuneros of Norzagaray and Pandi (I am not sure about Angat), supported the aspirations of Bonifacio. Maybe he aided him because personal feelings must not interfere with his duty as one of the leaders of the KKK in his town. In fact, when it was time for Aguinaldo and his men to leave, he along with Sinforoso dela Cruz and the youngest Katipunero in their town (his surname was Policarpio, I have yet to research about his first name), escorted him to San Miguel, Bulacan. [I have reasons to believe that he was indeed a Bonifacio man because like Bonifacio, he arranged secret meetings in caves. Bonifacio, in some of historical articles I read, had this thing about caves and a belief about Bernardo Carpio.] Anyway, around this cave blood had been shed, but it was not from our ancestors' but that of the enemy.  The Katipuneros were able to lure the Spaniards there and during the battle, the latter were eventually killed.  This incident was one of the few battles that Katipuneros won over the Spaniards according to oral history in Garay .  

When Spanish rule ended, the cave had been relatively quiet.  People no longer used it for secret meetings, only for ceremonies of some religious cults that mushroomed during the American period.  There was a story, though, that I recall about a man that hid in that cave for years.  He was not a local; he was a stranger who went there to evade authorities.  The man was a fugitive.  He killed his wife when he caught her in bed with another man.  For a long time, he was the community’s open secret. The locals knew that he was hiding in the cave but everybody kept quiet about it. The folks probably sympathized with him or maybe he was able to capture the hearts of the townsmen. To them, he was known as “Dr. Piping Panaguan" because he was a doctor. He was  "Piping Panaguan" to them to differentiate him from the local doctor whose name was also Piping (Dr. Jose "Piping" Paguia, Sr.). He was well-loved by the locals because he had helped a lot of people. Even in hiding, he remained a doctor and from time to time he treated the folks with ailments. According to oral history, Dr. Piping Panaguan whose actual name was "Jose Rivera" remained in the cave for years that when he came out he was sporting a very long beard.  He came out after the PC's (Philippine Constabulary) was abolished, so there was no need for him to hide anymore[I have yet to determine the year when this story happen because there were periods in the history of Philippine Police and Armed Forces when they were merged, dissolved or revived] .

During the Japanese occupation, Pinagrealan became a hideaway by both sides of the camp--the Filipinos and the Japanese. You must be wondering how on earth could Pinagrealan be a hideway when the opening is so visible from afar.  Well, again, according to my dad, that was not the case before.  There was a boulder covering its opening.  The rock fell later on, when it was bombed by the Japanese (or was it the Americans?).  I am not sure of the events around here during this time.  What I know is that somewhere near the cave, on a road called "daang Hapon," hundreds of Japanese were massacred. It was a triumphant event for the Filipino and American soldiers that time. 

My respect for the cave was probably born when I came across a 1949 law created by the Municipal Council of Norzagaray declaring Pinagrealan a local shrine.  It was my grandfather, Jose Castro, Sr., who lobbied for its preservation and declaration as a shrine, because of its significance in local and national history as indicated in that "Kapasyahan."  My lolo was a rational and practical man and if someone like him acted in order to protect this site, then it was my belief that it was really worth preserving. If only people could read that "Kapasyahan," I think they would be moved, too, like I was. The wordings carried a nationalistic tone, and I couldn't help but admire the councilors and mayor that time. They were honorable men who cared about their past and wanted to preserve the reminder of their ancestors' sacrifices.  

I am not going to enumerate anymore how many times the family had to go to different government agencies in order to save the cave; to prevent its limestones from being quarried; or, what we went through to stop its destruction. Pinagrealan, with or without its' historical significance, is a beauty to behold once you are inside it. The family decided years ago to allow the public access to the cave through our land so that they may come and enjoy its wonder. My wish is that it will remain there as it is for a thousand more years. 

I haven't been inside the cave for years, and my old pictures won't do justice to the real beauty of what's inside.  There are bloggers, however, who recently went to Pinagrealan and I must say, their pictures of the cave are amazing.  The links below would take you to their experiences.

http://journeyingjames.com/2012/07/spelunking-adventure-pinagrealan-cave-norzagaray-bulacan/

http://www.ambot-ah.com/pinagrealan-cave-underground-springs-norzagaray-bulacan/

Breathtaking El Nido

I have long wanted to go to El Nido. People who had been there said it was paradise and I wanted to discover for myself if that was really true. Several times, I had been to Palawan but the opportunity to see it never came up.   Last year, I promised myself that I was going to see this place soon. And so, to finally lay to rest this "unfinished business", I made the flight booking early this year when Airphil Express had a sale.  Although July was not one of the best months to travel, I chose to book around that time so that the hubby could join me and the kids. His vacation was scheduled from June to August this year.

Another reason for choosing El Nido was because the kids could also see Puerto Princesa since that was going to be our first stop over. I wanted my kids, especially the older one to see the cleanest city in the Philippines.  I wanted to impress on her mind how important is a citizen's cooperation in keeping a city or a place clean and beautiful.   [Obviously, the city made quite an impression on her but that is another story to write about later.]

July finally came, so to Palawan off we went.  Me, my husband and the two children ages 11 and 3 were up so early for our morning flight via Airphil Express. The kids were both elated to be travelling again and they kept babbling and monkeying around tirelessly.   Last year, we went to Siargao and they had a good time there.  This time, it was Palawan, and the thought of going there excited my eldest no end.  

First Stop: Puerto Princesa

Our flight from Manila to Puerto Princesa got delayed for half an hour but still we arrived there at about 9am.  The plan was to go straight to El Nido; so upon arrival, we immediately went outside of the airport vicinity (the tricycles within the airport premises charge higher than the those outside) and hailed a tricycle to San Jose Terminal where we were to ride a van. I paid Php 70.00 for the ride.

A day before we left for Palawan, I called Lexus Transport to arrange for our van transportation to El Nido.  I paid Php1600.00 for the four of us.

600.00 --per pax (adult)

400.00-- kid (11 years old)

Lexus did not charge us for our 3 year old kid.

Travel from Puerto Princesa to El Nido took about 5 hours.  There was about more than 3 hours of smooth driving because the road was already concrete, but about less than two hours before approaching our destination,  the ride became quite bumpy due to the unpaved roads. It was under construction, though, so hopefully future visitors would not have to experience this.  Anyway, once you reach town, the ride gets smoother again because roads there are already cemented.

Accommodation

I did not book our accommodation prior to our trip because I read in a blog that during low season, it is wiser to just go there and ask around first because you'll find cheaper accommodations that way. Since  I was on a budget, that was what I did. However, the hubby was not used to this style, he just wanted to go  have a place to stay in pronto so after inquiring from 5 lodgings, we settled on a place walking distance from the beach, the Silverise Pension House.  We were not able to get beach front accommodation because we discovered that although it was low season, still most lodgings along the beach were fully booked. Around town, accommodations range from Php 5,000.00 to as low as 450.00 per room depending on the class and type of lodging (aircon/fan room).The high end accommodations are located away from the town, the Lagen Resort and Miniloc Hotel. The accommodation we chose, however, turned out well for us.  I have no complains, although it was not at the beach front, the friendliness and very accommodating attitude of the owner and staff more than made up for it.  

Food  

There are many restaurants in El Nido offering varied cuisines from local to continental. The food are quite pricey.  However, there are carinderias or eateries that offer affordable meals.Some accommodations allow their guests to cook, so if you're on a budget you can always go to the market to buy and cook your own meals.   There is a bakery where you can buy breads or pandesal for snacks.  And some lodgings offer hot water for free so you can have coffee/chocolate drinks.

Island Tours

The town of El Nido was beautiful in itself.  The view by the beach was scenic and breathtaking.  Limestone cliffs surrounded the place; but, to fully appreciate El Nido, you have to see the islands around it.  Although the beach at the town proper was nice, the many boats that lined the shore could spoil the pleasure of swimming there for some.  It seemed like the main industry of the people in that town was the motorboat tour on its islands and the visitors' main activity was island hopping.  El Nido has about 45 islands surrounding the main island. That is why it was named the Bacuit Archipelago.  You can choose from about 5 kinds of tours. The tours are standardized and labelled into Tour A up to Tour  E. But, for a certain price, you can customize your tour choosing the islands or places you wish to explore. The night before we were supposed to island hop, we canvassed first.  Some operators charge full payment for our two kids.  We settled with Arman Tours because he gave the cheapest rate for the four of us.  Upon the recommendation of the operator, we chose the basic--tour A. We paid 500.00 each for me and the hubby and 300.00 for my eldest (snorkelling gear included).  Kids five years old below is free of charge with Arman Tours.

Before you could set off island hopping, you have to pay the Php 200.00 environmental fee which the local government charged each visitor.

Tour A

The tour started at 9am.  We were at the bay 10 minutes before the agreed time.  Tour A  was composed mainly of visits to Small, Big, and Secret Lagoons in Miniloc Island, lunch at Payong Payong Beach, Shimizu Island and Seven Commandos Beach.  It took us all day to finish the said tour.

Small Lagoon

To get to the small lagoon, you have to swim your way into its entrance.  A life vest is a must since the water is quite deep and you have to swim about several meters before reaching the opening.Some rented kayaks so they just paddled their way into the opening. The swim was worth it though because it was beautiful inside.

We weren't able to take pictures inside because we did not bring an underwater camera. The same with the Big Lagoon, I didn't take any pictures there.

Secret Lagoon

This was something else, going to the secret lagoon.  To get there, we walked towards the small cave-like entrance and climb its opening. The island where the secret lagoon is located was beautiful.

the beach outside the secret lagoon

the small entry way to the lagoon

inside the lagoon

This is the view outside the secret lagoon

We walked back to our boat, but before leaving this beautiful island, we couldn't help but snapped some more pictures.

the "pocket paradise" (just called it that because this place is partly hidden by big limestone formations                            and it was so postcard perfect)

Payong Payong Beach

We had our lunch at Payong Payong Beach.  It was too bad I was not able to snap some photos of the meal our boatmen, Mang Melchor and John Dave, prepared for us.  The meal, composed of grilled fish and pork chop with rice and salad were really mouth-watering.  But because by the time they were able to cook the foods, we were really all very hungry, so all thoughts about picture-taking were forgotten.

Shimizu Island

Second to last stop of our tour is Shimizu Island where the kids and the hubby had fun feeding schools of fishes.

The kids, with the hubby. Our two boat companions (forgot their names) from Denmark.

Feeding the fishes

Seven Commandos Beach

About past 2pm, we set off to our last stop in our itinerary, the Seven Commandos Beach. Like the other beaches we went to earlier in the day, the beach was white, the water was clean, and the place is simply breath taking. The long stretch of beach surrounding the island was pure heavenly.  We stayed here up to 4 pm to swim and horse around.  Our two female boat companions from Denmark, on the other hand, just lazed around and sun bathed.

About 4:30pm, we were already back at the shore of the town proper.  It was quite tiring, but all of us had a a good time.

Thoughts about El Nido

It was during the tour that I truly appreciated El Nido in all its glory and beauty.  It was really paradise just like they say it was.  I would love to go back there some other time. 

El Nido couldn't be compared to Boracay because they are so different( I don't know about Coron but then again, Coron, although, it is similar in topography with El Nido, doesn't have as many islets surrounding it). In Boracay, its main attraction is  the long stretch of beach itself.  You don't have to go island hopping to fully appreciate it, although there are boat tours to nearby islands that would take your breath away.  In El Nido, the beaches are lined with boats specially in the morning, that it would be quite awkward for some to swim in it (although the foreigners sunbathing and swimming on the beach and its waters did not seem to mind). There are other beaches on the main island, though, such as Corong-Corong and Las Cabanas, where you can enjoy white sand beaches and clear blue waters.  Unlike the main bay, there are few people swimming and sunbathing in these beaches, although they are equally beautiful, probably because most of the tourists are engrossed in island hopping tours and other activities.

I feel sad, though, for the corals of this archipelago.  The island hopping tours might be harming them because each time that a boat drops its anchor in the water near an island where corals abound, it poses harm to them.  Eventually, the corals will die if the boatmen are not careful. I hope tourism will not have a damaging effect to Bacuit Bay in the end.

Last Day in El Nido

Corong-Corong Beach

On our 3rd day, we went to Corong-Corong beach planning to go swimming.  We rode a tricycle and paid 30 pesos one way.  When we got there, the kids did not like it because it looked deserted.  We were the only people there.  My eldest persuaded us to go back to the beach at the town proper, she said that she preferred swimming there because there are lots of people along the beach and no mosquitoes and other insects to scare her. 

And so we went back to the town proper and there, the two kids made friends with some local children and really had fun at the beach.